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higgybrew
04-10-2002, 05:53 PM
Flat cam lobes! My new cam didn't like the break-in procedure I guess. 4 flat ones. At least the bottom end is OK and I'm ready to defend my MOD title all you Ford and Mopar guys. :)

Lethal Weapon
04-10-2002, 07:47 PM
Hows the cam bearings ? DAN

CCRT
04-11-2002, 05:09 AM
Mark--

What was your break-in method? Who made the cam?

Kevin Brodeur wiped out a few lobes on his Crane cam this weekend.:(

higgybrew
04-11-2002, 06:00 AM
Dan I think the cam bearings are junk - am going to go through the whole thing (again!). Dave my break-in method was incorrect I guess. Even though I didn't let the revs below 2000 I used all the valve springs which I now found out is wrong to do. It was a Crane cam. From now on I will only use the outer springs.

Belvedere65
04-11-2002, 06:56 AM
Mark, I've broken all my cams in with full sets of springs and MOPAR break-in lube on the lobes and lifters. Never had a problem. Did you have the break-in lube on the parts?

higgybrew
04-11-2002, 06:59 AM
yep - had all the lobes and lifters gooped up good. It's strange as I broke in my other cam last year with the same setup and no problems with that one! Frustrating as H-E-double hockey sticks!

CCRT
04-11-2002, 07:04 AM
Mark--

You weren't using synthetic oil during the break-in????

higgybrew
04-11-2002, 07:10 AM
see above

CCRT
04-11-2002, 07:17 AM
Since last weekends demise of both yours and Kevin's Camshafts I've done a little web re-search. (Kevin's was a Crane also)

I don't believe in having to use the outer spring only. If the spring pressure is correct for the camshaft there shouldn't be any problems.

I'm only reporting what I've read.

Seems that the name Crane appears a whole bunch when people are reporting lobe problems after break-in???????


BTW: Please Mark..... Don't use Mopar Lifters and Mopar lube in your Chebby.

The lobes on a Mopar camshaft consist of layers of built up Ducttape:eek:

Belvedere65
04-11-2002, 10:01 AM
That is good advice from Mr. Dave Mark. Then there will be more lifters and lube for me. Not that it is needed that often!

mod313
04-11-2002, 09:36 PM
Mark,
I've never had a lick of trouble with Comp Cams stuff. Like Dave said, if combo is correct for cam you should not have any trouble. Only cams I've ever had not last long were Crane also, but I haven't used their stuff in years because of that.
Of course you didn't happen to get one of those super secret rubber cams did you?
Anyway hope you get there Sundaaaay.

higgybrew
04-12-2002, 06:15 AM
Hey Doug - I bought the Crane Super Light Aluminum Foil cam trying to pick up that extra .1 seconds! The strange part about this deal is that when I changed the oil & filter after break-in there was no sign of any metal at all - I use a Moroso pre-filter screen and it was clean! Only after that change and a few aborted passes down the track did it show up. I'm waiting to hear from the place I bought it from. BTW - I think that cam profile wasn't right for the 11-1 CR I'm running. My cranking pressure was only 125 lbs. My repl. engine has 175. See you all this weekend.
PS - picking up the MOD Chevy hospitality trailer next week (if my race car doesn't need to come home again!)

Belvedere65
04-13-2002, 03:48 AM
Yes Mark, you must have installed a 100,000 thousand mile MOPAR motor to have 175# of cranking pressure. Some things just keep going & going & going! :D

mod313
04-15-2002, 08:23 PM
Higgy,
I guess the new super secret rubber camshaft must have worked good yesterday.;)

Stk1514
04-16-2002, 08:15 PM
We use a product called Moly coat on the cam lobes, bearing surfaces, and lifters, ( especially heavy on thesides & bottoms).
We prime the oil pump with an electric drill. ( some people use STP in the oil pump first) You can purchase used distributors @ a swap meet (or buy an aftermarket oil priming tool from co's like Moroso or Mail order). remove the center shaft, & attach it to the chuck end of a variable speed drill. This allows the oil to get up into the lifter gally's, push rods, and rockers as well.
We rotate the motor at least a dozen times by hand until oil has saturated the engine. That way you are assured that the oil has penetrated into all areas of the engine before initial start up.
Prior to starting it in the car, and after installing the distributor, we turn the engine over with a remote starter button until we see oil pressure, then hit the ignition!
Hope this helps you!

Dave Bureau
04-16-2002, 09:04 PM
After running a 6.60 @ 204.6 the only thing worse than flat beer is NO BEER!!!!!!!